Minnesota Valley Humane Society

Does your dog bark and/or lunge and pull on his leash when near another dog? Although it can indicate a desire to play, sometimes it’s a much more serious case of dog-to-dog aggression. There are many reasons why a dog can become aggressive toward other dogs. Perhaps he was not socialized or was not properly socialized for a long enough period of time as a puppy, or maybe he had traumatic experiences with an overly aggressive or other unsocialized dog, or was inadvertently taught to fear other dogs. Whatever the reason, there are ways to manage the problem, and make the process of taking your dog out on leash a lot more pleasant.

Facts about Dog-Aggressive Dogs

• Male dogs that have not been neutered can be more aggressive with other male dogs, especially if the other male is also not neutered. This may be due to the influence of the male sex hormone testosterone. If your aggressive dog is not spayed or neutered, do this first!
• Many dog aggressive dogs that react by barking and lunging at other dogs may do not do well in obedience class because they are so distracted by the close proximity of other dogs. These dogs cannot sit still long enough to focus and learn. Consider taking these dogs for an individual session with a qualified behaviorist or trainer before signing up for a group class.
• Just because a dog is aggressive to other dogs, it does not mean the dog will be aggressive to humans. Many dog-aggressive dogs are very friendly and can be good with older children.

Safety First when Managing a Dog-Aggressive Dog

• Always have a strong, adept adult holding onto the leash when walking a dog-aggressive dog. Only use a strong leash of 6 feet or less. Consider purchasing a leash that goes around your waist – if your dog pulls or lunges, it won’t be possible for the leash to be pulled out of your hands.
• Do not leave a dog-aggressive dog unattended in a fenced yard or chained to a tether.
• Never get between agitated dogs. Sometimes dogs will redirect their anger and bite whatever is near them.
• Utilize the advice of a professional behaviorist or trainer before embarking on a training protocol.

Below are some tips to help you teach your dog alternative behavior to barking, pulling and lunging at other dogs so you can walk him with control, safety and enjoyment.

• Acquire a Gentle Leader, or other brand of head halter, for your dog. This will allow you to control your dog’s head, allowing you to bring his attention to you before things get out of hand.
• Feed your dog only while on walks. Your dog will learn that food is his reward for good behavior and attention to you on walks.
• Determine the distance at which he can comfortably walk by a dog without reacting (at all) to it. Always keep within this distance from other dogs and get his attention on you BEFORE he reacts to the other dog. Always keep your dog engaged in an appropriate behavior while strange dogs are nearby, so he doesn’t have a chance to “lock and load” on them.
• Constantly watch your dog and what is coming ahead. Anticipate a reaction, and get his attention before he can react. Ask for a SIT, SHAKE, WATCH (point to your eyes) etc. and reward for everything other than barking and lunging at another dog. Do not let him stare at dogs for longer than two seconds because he will escalate to barking and lunging quickly.
• Be as relaxed and happy sounding as possible. Your dog senses your anxiety and may be reacting to that as well. Do not punish your dog for his barking and lunging. Chances are he is expressing his stress in the only way he knows how. It is your job to teach him an alternative behavior.
• Do not just ignore the problem or allow it to continue. Barking and lunging is self-rewarding (i.e. when your dog reacts this way, the other dog always leaves, so it appears beneficial for the dog to continue this behavior). The problem will not go away and may worsen if you do nothing about it.
• If your dog starts barking and lunging, exit the situation as quickly as possible, putting as much distance between your dog and the other one as possible. Give your dog a cue when he has calmed down, give him a food reward, and move on. Let bygones be bygones and don’t focus on past failures but focus on creating present successes.
• These training exercises should be done during times when you won’t be constantly encountering other dogs. A few dogs at a distance that your dog can handle is how you begin. Your goal is to work up to encountering more dogs at a closer distance over time. Don’t rush things. Always quit in a positive note. Your dog will let you know how quickly or slowly he can progress.

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